A Kiwi Riesling?

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New Zealand is the land of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, right? Well, not so fast. While we usually think of Germany and Alsace when we think of Riesling, it turns out that New Zealand makes a really nice version. Riesling conveys the sense of its vineyard more than almost any other grape, so, how could we not check out what the Kiwis are up to? After all, they produce a popular Sauvignon Blanc that they describe as having a cat’s pee aroma, so my imagination is running wild on what their Riesling must be like!

One of the best parts of wine is exploring new regions and grapes. Sometimes we find hidden gems; sometimes not so much. The thing about Riesling is that you can find it in a wide range of styles, from bone dry to intensely sweet, in cold regions around the world. So, for example, if you don’t like a sweet German Riesling, you may find a dry Alsatian to your taste.

  • Wine geeks often argue that Riesling is one of the world’s finest and most appreciated wines – a “noble” grape, they say. That makes me want to salute the bottle.
  • Full disclosure: I love a good dry Riesling. For a Wine Concepts favorite Alsace Riesling check out our earlier post.

Riesling thrives in cold weather, so New Zealand makes a lot of sense. Central Otago, where our wine of the week is produced, is the southernmost wine producing region in the world (see the map below).  It borders the Southern Alps, and there’s plenty of sunlight and cold nights – just the thing for high-quality Riesling.

Our Wine of the Week is a 2019 Rippon Old Vine Riesling ($31 retail). Rippon is a biodynamic producer located in the northernmost part of Central Otago, with vineyards along Lake Wanaka that provide a stunning view of the Southern Alps. Cutting to the chase, this is an interesting, high-quality wine that’s distinct from anything else that we’ve tasted. We’ll be buying more for the Wine Concepts cellar.

  • The wine features aromas of peach, white flowers, and a hint of petrol. On the palate, it has a touch of sweetness that’s nicely balanced by a bracing acidity, along with stone fruit and a hint of honey. Because it’s aged on its lees (dead yeast cells) it has a creaminess to it that suggests a fuller body than we would have expected from a wine with 12 percent alcohol. It has a marvelous complexity and reveals itself in layers. Take a sip and fasten your seat belt – the finish is long and interesting.
  • The Rippon Old Vine Riesling fits nicely between the bone-dry Alsatian Rieslings and the off-dry German versions. I find most German Rieslings too sweet for my palate, but I loved this wine.
  • Try it with poultry, white fish, sushi, and – yes -- Chinese and Thai food.

Cheers!

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