Two roads diverged in a wood, and I --
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference. Robert Frost, "The Road Not Taken."
We were sitting in Gio Restaurant, in the Prince George Hotel, Halifax, Nova Scotia. Our waitress handed us the wine list, and patiently waited for a decision. The list contained the usual suspects - a nice selection of French, Italian and the like, and . . . several local Nova Scotia wines. Need I say that, outside of Canada, one rarely finds the words "Nova Scotia" and "fine wine" in the same sentence?
The waitress sensed our skepticism, and explained that the local vineyards produced very nice wines from some unusual grapes (it takes a hardy grape to prosper in the challenging Nova Scotia climate). We still weren't biting, so she poured several samples and introduced us to the local wine scene. Now convinced, we began with a bottle of a local white blend called Tidal Bay. More on that below.
This experience focuses us on two key points.
- Sometimes it pays to take the "road less traveled." Try something new, you might actually like it - particularly if guided by an insider. You can find some very interesting, quality wines produced in areas that you wouldn't typically think about.
- A restaurant with a well-thought-out wine list and a knowledgeable staff, such as Gio, can make "all the difference." What's the point of a nicely prepared meal when the wines are uninspired and improperly served? Sadly, that is the norm in far too many restaurants. We were so impressed with Gio that we returned for a second visit, and had another delightful meal with a different waitress who was equally knowledgeable and passionate about wine.
A bit of background on Nova Scotia wines.
- There are more than 70 growers and 800 acres of vineyards in Nova Scotia. (If you're curious about Nova Scotia wines, click here.) Granted, that's smaller than some single vineyards in California, but their wine industry is still developing.
- Sure, it gets cold in Nova Scotia - the vineyards are located at about 45 degrees north latitude. But, by comparison, that's roughly the same latitude as Portland, Oregon (and nearby Willamette Valley) and Bordeaux. Reims, in the heart of Champagne, is even further north at approximately 49 degrees latitude. Of course, climate is determined by much more than just latitude.
- Typical of a cold weather climate, Nova Scotia excels in white and sparkling wines from traditional grapes, such as Chardonnay and Riesling, and various hybrids of European and North American grapes.
Our wine of the week is a 2018 Gaspereau Vineyards "Tidal Bay" (about $17 US retail). This was a really nice wine for just sipping and enjoying with good company, or for pairing with shellfish and other seafood. Ever notice how local wines go so well with local foods? It's not a coincidence. This Tidal Bay is made from Vidal Blanc, Seyval Blanc NY Muscat, Chardonnay and Riesling grapes (producers can vary their blend of authorized grapes). It has citrus, apple and mango notes, perhaps a touch of sweetness, and a nice minerality and refreshing acidity.
- "Tidal Bay" is a wine appellation (the first in Nova Scotia), and many local wineries make their own version. The Tidal Bay appellation encompasses wines made anywhere in Nova Scotia from approved grape varieties and meeting certain quality standards. Tidal Bay is considered a "signature" wine that reflects the characteristics of the local terroir -- it's a crisp, aromatic white blend with good acidity and low (maximum 11 percent) alcohol. The name "Tidal Bay" reflects the fact that Nova Scotia vineyards are generally within about 12 miles of the ocean.
- Tidal Bay is a great illustration of a region figuring out what grapes grow best on its terroir and running with it. Other regions have failed either by trying to grow popular varieties that aren't suitable for the local terroir, or trying to produce everything rather than developing an identity.
- Gaspereau Vineyards, and many other Nova Scotia wineries, is located about an hour and fifteen minutes from Halifax. The Grand Pré UNESCO World Heritage site is nearby. Grand Pré is a stunning memorial to the 1755 expulsion of the French-speaking Acadians by the British. A recreation of the Grand Pré church, where the Acadians were imprisoned prior to being separated from their families and deported, is shown below.
Sadly, Nova Scotia wines can be challenging to find. Most importers won't bother to import small quantity, largely unknown wines. But, you can generally order direct from the winery. Or, travel to Nova Scotia - you won't be disappointed!
Cheers!
