Usually the headache comes after you drink the alcohol. Not so on April 15. Doing your taxes causes the headache; alcohol is simply the logical next step. But not just any alcoholic beverage. This is a job for . . . Armagnac.
What does Armagnac have to do with taxes? Armagnac is the oldest French brandy, dating from the 1300s. Ancient lore has it that it can cure pains and relieve mental anguish. Hence the link to taxes. I suspect that the typical 14th century Frenchman had a nip after paying the king his due.
But this is a wine blog, so what does Armagnac have to do with wine? It’s produced in southwest France, about 100 miles south of Bordeaux, in the same area as IGP Côtés de Gascogne wine region. (See map below.) Armagnac is made by distilling white wine into brandy, and then aging it in oak barrels. So, it’s a wine that has … evolved … through distillation. Typically, it’s 40 percent alcohol, or 80 proof.
Although they are both French brandies, Armagnac and its more famous relative, Cognac, are very distinct. Primarily, this is because Armagnac is distilled only once and Cognac is distilled twice. The single-distilled Armagnac is more fiery, aromatic and flavorful, and the double-distilled Cognac is smoother and more polished. Additionally, Armagnac is made from a blend of up to ten grapes, and Cognac is made principally from one grape,
After it’s distilled, Armagnac is aged in oak barrels, and the aging period significantly affects its character. Older versions are darker in color, more complex and smoother. The following indications appear on the label:
- VS is aged at least one year. A VS doesn't get much time in barrel to mellow, so it will be fruity and fiery. It's good neat, over ice or in cocktails,
- VSOP is aged at least four years. It's more mellow than the VS, and will have notes of cooked fruits and some wood and spice. It's good over ice or in cocktails, but also pairs well with blue veined cheese, such as a Roquefort.
- XO and Hors d’âge are aged at least 10 years. These categories are rich and smooth.
- Vintage. Unlike the previous three categories, which are blends of multiple vintages, a Vintage Armagnac is made only from grapes of the indicated vintage.
Let's put all of this into play. Our “wine” of the week is a Labiette Castille XO ($79 retail.) It’s from the best of the three Armagnac sub-regions, "Bas Armagnac," and it features aromas of hazelnut, toffee, vanilla, coffee and pear. This is a complex, aromatic brandy, but it still has a bite. After completing my taxes and pouring a suitable sample, I have the following observations:
- It did in fact cure pain and relieve mental anguish. Mission accomplished. (The appropriate serving size varies according to your tax situation.)
- It pairs well with chocolate desserts, such as chocolates mousse and, yes, gourmet chocolate chip cookies. It’s also great with fruit-based desserts. The sweetness of the dessert noticeably tames the acidity of the brandy.
- Try pouring an ounce or so in a cup of coffee. The coffee notes in the brandy mesh well with the coffee and make a great after dinner drink.
A few final thoughts. The typical serving size for brandy is 1-2 ounces, and it can be served in a brandy snifter or a tulip-shaped glass. Once you've opened it, a bottle of Armagnac will remain good for at least a year. Be sure to store the bottle upright, because the high alcohol level can deteriorate the cork.
Cheers!