Drinking Outside the Box

deicas-1

In mishap there is opportunity. I had originally planned to write about Portugal’s Vinho Verde . . .  until I discovered that carrying two wine bottles in a thin paper bag was a very bad idea. Today’s helpful tip: don’t do that. So, rather than cry over spilt wine – and a fair amount of broken glass -- I used this as an opportunity to try something a bit different: a Tannat from Uruguay.

  • What should you care about Tannat? Although little known, Uruguayan Tannat is a very affordable, and more powerful, alternative to Cabernet Sauvignon (typically $15 – 30 for high quality wines).

Tannat? Uruguay? Life is full of surprises. Uruguay has been making wine since the 1870s, when Basque immigrants planted vineyards with Old World grape varieties. Today, it’s the fourth largest South America producer by volume, although it’s dwarfed by Argentina and Chile. The country is about the size of Washington state and has a strong wine culture, with the largest per capita wine consumption in South America.

  • Uruguay’s climate is much different from the other South American wine producing countries. In fact, it’s more like Bordeaux, with significant rainfall and cool Atlantic breezes that preserve the wine’s acidity and freshness. The Atlantic coast is particularly cool because the currents flow up from Antarctica.
  • Uruguay’s vineyards are concentrated across the Rio de la Plata from Buenos Aires.

Uruguay’s signature wine is Tannat which accounts for more than a quarter of its wine production. The grape is native to Madiran, in southwest France, but many (including me) believe that Uruguayan Tannat outshines the French version.

  • Tannat is one of the world’s most tannic wines. The French version traditionally has harsh tannins that require a lengthy time in barrels and in bottle to soften before they are drinkable. It has been referred to as a "brute in a bottle." The Uruguayan version is plumper and has velvety tannins that are approachable when young. (More on tannins here.)
  • As a bonus, Tannat is considered to be one of the “healthiest” red wines because it contains a high level of antioxidants, such as resveratrol.
  • Uruguay also produces several other varieties, including Merlot (often blended with Tannat to soften it), Albariño, and some Pinot Noir.

Our wine of the week is a 2015 Famila Deicas Tannat (about $20 retail). It’s made from 100 per cent Tannat (many Tannat wines are blended with Merlot or Cabernet Franc to soften the wine). Familia Deicas is a third-generation family-owned vineyard, and one of the most highly regarded producers in Uruguay. They made about 6,000 cases of the 2015 Tannat, a deep purple wine with aromas of blueberry, raspberry and black plum. The wine is full-bodied, with firm but pleasant tannins and notes of black fruit and chocolate.  It's generally balanced, although the alcohol (14 percent) was a bit prominent.  The wine was moderately complex - it left us wondering (in a good way) what exactly were we tasting? The finish was medium plus and pleasant.

  • We liked this wine a lot, and it compares favorably with wines costing twice as much.
  • Pair this Tannat with the same foods as you would with a Cabernet Sauvignon, such as beef, sausage, and lamb. Just as with the Cabernet, protein and fat tame the tannins and both the food and the wine benefit.
  • Bottom line: if you like big red wines and want to try something different, give this a try!

Cheers!