I was browsing in a local wine shop when I came across a bottle that reminded me of a bike trip through Burgundy several years ago. We had just finished the day’s journey, well-fortified by several food and wine stops along the way, when we pulled into Domaine Lejeune, in the village of Pommard, for one last wine tasting. The winery is in the courtyard of a former church, and our small group gathered around to sample the Lejeune wines and compare notes on the wineries that we had visited.
- The other cyclists were French and Norwegian, and they took the bike riding part of the tour far more seriously than the Wine Concepts team. Then again, the picture above shows what happens when even a serious cyclist is given the choice between wine and cheese or peddling.
As for the “bargain” part of the story, Domain Lejeune produces a (relatively) inexpensive Bourgogne Côte D’Or, although in an unusual style. These days, the price of wines from prestigious Burgundy appellations is stratospheric, so for everyday wines I tend to look for wines made by excellent producers in lesser appellations. There are some real values to be found in regional appellations such as Bourgogne, Bourgogne Côte d’Or, Hautes Côtes de Beaune, and Hautes Côtes de Nuits.
- Wines labeled with the “Bourgogne” appellation can use grapes grown anywhere in Burgundy. A regional appellation with an additional geographic description, such as Bourgogne Côte d’Or, must use grapes grown in that narrower defined area. So, you’ll have a better sense of what the wine will be like.
- Historically Hautes Côtes de Beaune, and Hautes Côtes de Nuits have produced uninteresting wines, primarily because these appellations are on thin, rocky soils at the top of the slopes where weather conditions prevented the grapes from ripening fully. With climate change, these regions are producing some very nice wines.
- Some of my favorite, dependable Burgundy producers include Bouchard Père et fils; Joseph Drouhin; Faiveley; Louis Jadot; Olivier Leflaive; and Louis Latour. Even from lesser appellations, they generally produce very nice wines.
Our featured wine is the 2021 Domain Lejeune Bourgogne Côte D’Or (about $30). This is not a wine for everyone: it will appeal to folks that like a subtle, light-bodied wine that will develop in the glass over time. It is made using an unusual process for Burgundy Pinot Noir called “semi-carbonic maceration,” in which fermentation occurs largely within the grapes rather than by yeast acting on grape juice. The wine was very pale ruby in color and light bodied, and when the bottle was first opened it resembled a young Beaujolais. It developed nicely over 15 minutes, showing notes of sour cherry and strawberry with almost imperceptible tannins, a nice acid level, and a medium finish.
- The bottom line, if you want to try an unusual Burgundy red, this is it.
- If you’re looking for a more traditional Burgundy Pinot, try a regional wine from one of the above-named producers.
Cheers!