A quick housekeeping item before we move to today’s topic: On October 28 we’ll present a one-hour French Wine class at the Austin Country Club. The class will be limited to ten people, although we may add a second session if there is sufficient demand. If you’re interested, email jim@wineconcepts.net and we’ll provide the details.
When most people think of Australia, they think of Shiraz. And rightly so, since Shiraz accounts for approximately one-fourth of Australian production, including some of its most prestigious wines. But Australia also produces many lesser known, good quality wines besides Shiraz. So, let’s check one out.
Adelaide Hills is one Australia’s most exciting wine regions. It’s located in South Australia (see map above), which is Australia’s version of California – “the” wine state. Vineyards are located in the foothills about a half-hour east of the city of Adelaide. It's a cool-climate region, with daytime mists and low nighttime temperatures that help preserve grape acidity – a really good thing if you’re trying to make a fresh white wine with vibrant flavors. But it’s a pretty big region – about 50 miles long – so the more than 90 wineries can exhibit considerable variation in climate and wine style.
- Adelaide Hills produces exceptional cool climate white wines. Its signature wine, Sauvignon Blanc, is considered Australia’s benchmark for this varietal, and its Chardonnay is among the best produced in Australia.
- The amazing thing about Adelaide Hills is that all of its vines were ripped out by the 1930s. Part of the problem was that winemakers hadn't quite figured out how to handle its cool climate. It wasn’t until the 1970s that a few pioneers interested in mastering cool climate wines replanted vines and initiated the region’s modern wine industry. Fifty years later the region is a center for innovation and premium wines.
The story of Max. Our wine of the week is named after Max Schubert, Penfold’s chief winemaker for 27 years. Max was one of those guys that marched to his own drummer. After touring wineries in the Rhône Valley and Bordeaux, and learning how they used Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and small oak barrels to make great wines, he decided to do the same in Australia. Max wasn't deterred by the fact that Australia lacked those grape varieties and had few oak barrels; he found a few barrels and made a wine mostly from Shiraz. It was virtually undrinkable in its early years and Penfolds management ordered him to stop making it. Max apparently missed that memo. When he released the wine in 1960, after it had matured and softened, it became Australia’s most iconic, and expensive, wine -- Penfold’s Grange.
Our wine of the week is a 2017 Penfolds Adelaide Hills “Max’s” Chardonnay ($19 retail), named in honor of Max Schubert. This is a very nice wine. If you’re a fan of big, buttery, oaked California Chardonnays this probably won’t be for you. It's a medium-bodied wine, with a moderate 13 percent alcohol level, that has seen some oak and has pleasant but not overwhelming fruit. Max’s has citrus and white flower aromas, with a hint of vanilla. On the palate, it has light citrus and subtle nutty notes, with a nice minerality and a bright acidity. Like many Australian wines it has a screw top, but that’s not a sign of poor quality.
- You'll want to drink it within the next year or so, so don't plan on stashing it in your cellar.
- This wine makes a nice aperitif, and also pairs well with chicken, light fish and pork.
Cheers!