How about a nice, cool climate, food-friendly California Syrah? Sure, when we think of Syrah, we usually think about the Rhône Valley (where the grape originated) and Australia (where “Shiraz” is the major grape and the country’s vinous calling card). After all, California – particularly Napa and Sonoma – is the land of Cabernet Sauvignon, right? Well, it turns out that California produces some exceptional Syrah with its own unique style.
- Each of these three widely separated regions produces a distinct Syrah style; some of the variation is due to terroir but much has to do with winemaker choices. Rhône Syrah typically is intense, with dark fruit, smoke, leather, spice, and meaty notes, and it can require a decade or more to soften and mature. Australian Shiraz tends to be powerful, alcoholic, and fruit forward, with red and black berry flavors and a smooth texture. California Syrah is the Goldilocks of the trio: it’s not too tannic, not too intense or aromatic, and just right for drinking upon release.
- Carneros is a sweet spot for quality California Syrah. This appellation, shared between southern Napa and Sonoma, is located along San Pablo Bay with its cooling sea breezes. While Carneros is better known for its Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and sparkling wines, its cool-climate Syrah can be superb.
So, what if we took grapes grown in a prestigious Carneros vineyard and applied the winemaking skills of Burgundy’s most prestigious domain? You’d get an elegant, Old World style wine called Hyde de Villaine (“HdV”). It’s a joint venture between Larry Hyde, owner of Hyde Vineyards, and Aubert de Villaine, co-owner of Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanée Conte.
- HdV is something of a family affair: Aubert de Villaine is married to Larry Hyde’s cousin Pamela. Which is probably a good thing, since Hyde Vineyards sells its grapes to only a few select clients – HdV moved to the head of the line and has first call on the best Hyde Vineyards tracts.
- In addition to its Syrah, HdV produces Chardonnays, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and a Merlot – Cabernet Sauvignon blend. But that’s a story for another day.
Our featured wine is a 2017 HdV Californio ($95 retail). This is a wine that has lived up to its pedigree, which in this case is a pretty high bar. The wine is produced from grapes grown on 2.1-acres in the Hyde Vineyard, and it’s 100 percent Syrah. Californio spends eighteen months in French oak. It’s deep purple, with delicate aromas of red raspberry, plum, pepper, violet, and smoke. On the palate, it’s medium- to full-bodied, with Syrah’s signature black pepper notes, subtle red fruit, and dusty tannins. It has an intriguing complexity and a nice, long finish. Californio clocks in at only 13.9 percent alcohol, a welcome relief from high-octane, warm climate styles.
- The “Californio” name pays tribute to the early Spanish settlers of California (“Californios”), from which the Hyde family has descended.
- You’ll want to pair this wine with a food with plenty of flavor. We loved it with a grilled steak, and it would be a great match for Texas BBQ. But it would also pair well with any cut of beef and pork, and it’s a natural for cheeses crusted with pepper or herbs.
- We found Californio on wine.com.
Cheers!