Where else but in the world of wine do people talk passionately about something that can be neither readily explained nor easily defined? That’s how it is with “minerality,” one of the most popular descriptive terms used by wine critics and wine writers. The term minerality wasn’t commonly used until the late 1990s – somehow, we managed to get through the previous two millennia without it. Ever since it entered the wine vocabulary, however, it has been a source of confusion for consumers.
As with many wine descriptors, minerality is simply a metaphor. For example, when we describe a wine as having cherry notes, there aren’t literally cherries in the wine - it’s just a convenient descriptor that helps describe the wine's flavor.
- So, let’s start with what “minerality” isn’t. The perception of minerality isn't caused by minerals in the wine. The short explanation is that scientists believe that the vine doesn't absorb significant amounts of minerals from the soil, and thus minerals don't work their way into the grapes. But, some winemakers disagree, arguing that just because science can’t explain it doesn’t mean it isn’t true. They also question how there can be a sense of terroir in wine if the grape doesn't actually take minerals from the soil.
- Well, then, what is it? Minerality is most often described as being like the aroma of fresh wet stones, or a cold mountain stream flowing over rocks. Thus, the picture above of me standing by a cold mountain stream in New Hampshire’s White Mountains -- anything for science. For others, it's a fresh, zesty taste typical of acidic wines that lack fruitiness but have an intangible, pleasant quality. Yet a third definition is an "energetic buzz" felt at the back of the throat. However described, minerality is viewed as a positive attribute.
- Oddly, wine experts disagree on whether minerality is an aroma, a taste or a texture – or a combination of all three. Which leads me to believe that everyone has a different sense of minerality. I also believe that some writers tend to use the term to fill a blank spot on the page.
Minerality is most often found in white wines from cool climates. Generally wines from cooler regions will have a higher level of acidity and less fruitiness, and a mouthwatering zestiness. For example, a Chablis from northern Burgundy, an Alsatian Riesling, or a cool climate Sauvignon Blanc will often exhibit minerality. But, minerality is not automatic in those wines. Of course, minerality also appears in other whites, as well as lighter-bodied reds.
The bottom line - as a famous Supreme Court case once observed in an entirely different context, you'll know it when you see it. It takes a little practice to detect minerality. The best approach is to sample some wines that are recognized as having minerality and see if you detect any of the attributes discussed above. A good starting point is a Chablis or a Riesling, such as our wine of the week.
Our wine of the week is a 2015 Hugel Riesling "Classic" from France’s Alsace region (retail $19). Alsatian Rieslings are quite different than German (and many other) Rieslings - they're dry and fruity, unlike the typically sweeter German Rieslings. The Hugel is medium-bodied, and has notes of peach, citrus, apple and a hint of honeysuckle. It's relatively low alcohol (12.5 percent), well-balanced, with a stimulating acidity, and . . . yes, minerality. We perceived minerality both on the nose and on the palate, in both instances more "steely" than "wet rocks."
- This was a very nice wine, and we wouldn't hesitate to recommend it.
- As with most Rieslings, it's very food friendly. You'll enjoy it with white fish, seafood, salmon, ham, pork, sushi and many Asian foods. It's also a great aperitif.
Cheers!