Off the Beaten Path – An Italian Ripasso

ripasso veneto

Sometimes it's fun to pick a wine that most people haven't tried just because it's new and interesting.  Maybe you'll like it - and maybe you won't.  But it will expand your wine horizons.

So, let's spin the wheel and go to  . . . the Veneto region of Northeast Italy.   One of the famous (and sometimes infamous) wines from this region is Valpolicella.  Now, suppose you took a high quality ("Classico Superiore") Valpolicella from a great vintage.  Then, you poured it on top of the warm, moist grape skins that were used to make Amarone (Veneto's most prestigious wine).  What would happen is that the Valpolicella would ferment again, and when the process was finished you'd have a wine with much more intense fruit flavors, perhaps a touch of sweetness and a higher alcohol level than Valpolicella.  That is called a "Ripasso" - Italian for "repassed" (over the Amarone grape skins).

Our wine of the week is a 2015 Tommasi Ripasso (about $18 retail).  This wine is only made during exceptional vintages, and is aged in oak barrels for 18 months. This is a ruby red wine, with notes of red fruit and pepper on the nose.  On the palate, it's rich, full-bodied and intensely fruity, with cherry and black pepper notes, and a 13 percent alcohol level.  Essentially, this is a baby Amarone - it has some of the same characteristics as an Amarone, but is less intense and less expensive (a Tommasi Amarone runs around $55 retail).  I'd rate this as a very good, but not great, wine, and a good value for the money.  But, if you don't like very fruity wines, this may not be the best choice for you.

The Tommasi Ripasso is widely available, and is a great match for tomato-based pastas.  The Ripasso would also work with grilled red meats.  If you can't find a Tommasi, other good producers include Masi and Tedeschi.