A value wine, from one of my favorite Spanish wine regions, made by a renowned producer . . . what’s not to like? Ribera del Duero is still relatively unknown among American wine drinkers, but its wines rival those of Rioja for Spain’s best. Dominus de Pingus is a storied Spanish producer, and its wines are considered by many to be Spain’s best.
- The thing about prestigious wines is that they tend to be brutally expensive – a bottle of Pingus will set you back about $1,000, if you can find it. But Dominus de Pingus came up with a concept that helped the struggling local farmers, preserved some of the region’s historic vineyards, and made one heck of a wine for consumers.
Although Ribera del Duero is located about 60 miles from Rioja and uses the same grape, its wines are distinctly different. This is red wine country, and most of the wines are made from Tempranillo (locally called “Tinto Fino”). Ribera del Duero is located on Spain’s high central plateau, with one of the highest elevations of Europe’s wine regions – an average of about 3,000 feet.
- Its climate has been described as nine months of winter and three months of hell, with scorching summer heat. But its elevation means remarkably cool nights, which translates to a lively acidity in the wines.
- The region’s vineyards are mostly small, averaging about 7.5 acres. That’s too small for growers to economically vinify their own wine, so they typically sell their grapes to wineries. Until the 1980s, that meant poorly maintained vineyards and cheap, bulk wine.
Dominus de Pingus was founded by a Dane, Peter Sisseck who moved to Spain in the 1990s and started a winery in his garage. The first Pingus vintage was 1995 and, after Robert Parker rated it highly, it became a cult wine. Pingus helped trigger the evolution of Ribera del Duero from bulk wine production to a region known for high quality wines.
- The winery also produces a “second” wine, Flor de Pingus, which is considered a great value at $120 a bottle. Still not a Wednesday night wine.
- And then there’s “PSI Ψ.” Sisseck wanted to preserve the region’s distinctive old vines while helping the struggling local growers. So, he identified the most promising small vineyards and worked with the owners to promote healthier, more natural viticulture, including biodynamic farming, and they supply the grapes for PSI. The first vintage was 2007, and Sisseck considers it still a work in progress.
- Why “PSI?” Ψ is the 23d letter of the Greek alphabet, which looks a lot like the old vines used to make the wine. Mystery solved.
Our featured wine is the 2018 PSI Ψ (about $35 retail). It’s a full-bodied red made from 10 percent Grenache and 90 percent Tempranillo. Consistent with Sisseck’s low intervention wine making philosophy, the wine is matured for 18 months in old wooden vessels; no new oak is used.
- PSI is about finesse rather than power, and it sort of sneaks up on you as it evolves in the glass. It's almost a Burgundian style, and you'll want to sip it over a half hour to enjoy it as it develops. PSI is garnet colored, with aromas of strawberry and pepper. On the palate, it’s a subtle, medium-bodied wine, with gentle tannins, a nice freshness, notes of strawberry, and perhaps a touch of forest floor. It's well balanced and has a medium finish.
- Unlike its more expensive siblings, this is a wine that should be drunk young. It’s peaking now, and probably best consumed within 10 years of its vintage.
- PSI will pair well with lean rare beef, pork, and . . . ah, heck, go for it with pasta or a meat pizza.
- The verdict: a very nice wine that delivers value for the money.
Cheers!