Lately, I’ve had a lot of people ask me to recommend a white wine other than the “usual suspects” (a.k.a., Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Grigio). In part, that’s because many restaurants and wine shops are getting more adventurous with their selections, which is a very good thing. And some folks tire of drinking the same old thing but aren’t quite sure what to try. Below I recommend several nice white wines; your homework is to try at least one of these over the next month.
- Hint: a restaurant with a good wine by the glass program is the best way to explore something new without committing to a full bottle. Better yet if they have a white flight so that you can compare. But make sure that the restaurant serves fresh bottles, as most wines become disagreeable after the bottle has been open for a few days.
Let’s start with Albariño, the best examples of which come from northwest Spain’s Rías Baixas appellation. These delicate wines are generally dry and light-bodied, with moderate alcohol content and a refreshing acidity. They have citrus notes and a briny minerality, which is not surprising given the region’s proximity to the ocean. It’s a nice alternative to Pinot Grigio, and Albariño pairs perfectly with seafood (steamed clams or mussels anyone?), white fish, fish tacos, and fried fish. You can generally find a nice bottle for around $20-30 retail.
Gruner Veltliner is becoming fashionable in restaurants and bars (where it’s called “Groo-Vee”). The best comes from Austria’s Wachau and Kamptal regions. These are typically light bodied, with a zesty acidity, citrus and herbaceous notes, and a touch of white pepper. Think of this wine as an alternative to Sauvignon Blanc. It’s a great pair for seafood and white meats, and the bracing acidity can handle fatty or fried foods, such as Weiner Schnitzel. It also works well with most Asian foods, including stir-fry and noodles. But because of its intense acidity, Groo-Vee goes better with food rather than as an aperitif. You’ll find some nice bottles in the $20 – 30 retail range.
Alsatian Riesling is one of my favorite whites. Many folks have been turned off on Riesling after trying an off-dry German variety, but Alsatian Riesling is a different animal! It’s funny how folks that swear that they hate Riesling actually enjoy Alsatians when they taste them blind. They’re typically dry, relatively low alcohol wines that feature citrus and mineral notes, and a pleasant acidity. Alsatian Rieslings are very food-friendly, pairing well with goat cheeses, charcuterie, seafood, poultry and pork dishes, and most Asian cuisines. Good Alsatian producers include Zind Humbrecht, Lucien Albrecht, and Trimbach, and basic offerings run about $25 retail. For a special occasion, look for the Trimbach "Cuvée Frédéric Emile" ($100 retail).
OK, now let’s trot out the big gun. We’re talking white Chateauneuf du Pape, a full-bodied, intense white that comes from the Southern Rhône Valley. Only about 8 percent of Châteauneuf production is white, so it can be a little hard to find, but worth the effort. We pulled the cork on a 2016 Château de la Gardine Cuvée des Générations Marie-Leoncie (about $80 retail), a blend of 90 percent Roussane and 10 percent Clairette. (Jim is pictured above tasting wines at Château de la Gardine). This is a complex, aromatic, and nicely balanced wine that has notes of apricot, citrus, honeysuckle, and a slight bitter note. The finish is long and enchanting.
- We loved this wine. We served it with grilled pork, but it will pair well with any white meat.
- If you can’t find a Château de la Gardine, look for a Château de Beaucastel or a Famille Brunier Chateauneuf du Pape blanc.
Cheers!