An Interesting Italian White

We often think of Italian white wines as bland and uninteresting, but the Piedmont region produces a really nice white called Roero Arneis.  It’s not very well known in the United States, which is a shame because this moderately priced wine is one of the most delightful Italian whites. It makes a great aperitif (perfect for sipping on the patio on a warm summer evening) and is ideal for seafood and even light chicken or pasta dishes. It’s well worth a try when you’re in the mood for something different from the “usual suspects.”

Roero is the name of the zone where the wine is produced, and it’s located just north of the southwestern Piedmont town of Alba. Think of rolling hills thick with vines and ancient castles, such as pictured above. The area was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site based on more than two millennia of viticulture traditions that are largely preserved in its quaint rural setting.

• Roero is a DOCG (the highest quality level) for both reds and whites. In fact, it’s the only area in Italy that has this distinction. (Roero reds are made from Nebbiolo, the same grape used for the more prestigious, and costly, Barolo and Barbaresco).

The Arneis grape is native to Roero, and is rarely found elsewhere. In the local Piedmontese dialect, Arneis means “rascal,” although it’s unclear why. By the 1970s, the grape was nearly extinct, used infrequently as a minor blending partner for other wines. Then several winemakers decided to experiment with predominantly Arneis wines and consumer demand exploded. That, in turn, prompted a dramatic expansion in production.

• Although Roero Arneis is made in relatively small quantities, it’s generally available in the U.S.
• Arneis typically produces aromatic, full-bodied wines, with light pear, citrus, and slightly smoky aromas.

Our wine of the week is a 2018 Vietti Roero Arneis ($22 retail).  It’s 100 percent Arneis, fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks – no oak here. It’s a pale straw yellow, with white floral, citrus and slight almond aromas.  On the palate, it’s dry and medium bodied with crisp acidity and notes of pear, citrus and almond. The wine is well-balanced, with a relatively low 13 percent alcohol level and a pleasant, medium finish.

• Vietti produces consistent, good-quality and good value wines across its product line. It was one of the leaders of the Arneis resurgence.
• Some other good producers to look for are Ceretto, Bruno Giacosa, Matteo Correggia and Monchiero Carbone.

Cheers!