I've had many questions lately about sparkling wines, so today we’ll explore some different types of sparkling wines - the "bubbles." We also recommend a couple of really interesting reads on Champagne - the "books." And one our two wines of the week is Veuve Cliquot – the "widow."
When most people think of sparkling wine, they think of Champagne and celebrations. And what's wrong with that? But sparkling wines are good for more than just celebrations, and there’s more to sparkling wine than just Champagne.
Some sparkling wines. Here's a overview of several types of Old World sparkling wines. We'll explore each of these in more detail in future blogs, but for now the idea is to introduce some alternatives that you might try if you're in the mood for a sparkler. Each has different characteristics, and there are some good values to be found in the lesser known regions. Your mission, should you choose to accept, is to explore some of these as part of an ordinary meal. (Because of space considerations, we'll explore New World sparklers in the future.)
- Champagne. Champagne is the yardstick by which all other sparkling wines are measured. What makes Champagne so special? Three things, really. First, Champagne can only be produced in a defined region in northeast France that has a unique terroir that produces wines unlike anywhere else. Second, it is made primarily (99 percent) from Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay (four other grapes are authorized). Third, the way it's made shapes its quality. Simplistically, it is the product of two separate alcoholic fermentations, the first in a vat when grapes are fermented into a base wine, and the second in the same bottle that is ultimately sold to the consumer. This is called the "Méthod traditionnelle" or "Méthod Champenoise." The wine is then aged in bottle, producing a wine with vibrant acidity and aromas of freshly baked bread or nuts. Some terms to know:
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- Non Vintage ("NV"). Unlike most wines, you won't find a vintage year on most champagne bottles. That is because it is usually made from a blend of different grapes and vintages to produce a consistent "house style." In contrast, "Vintage" champagne is produced in exceptional years and shows the characteristics of that year.
- Grower champagne. You'll see the term "RM" (Récoltant-Manipulant) on the label. It means that the producer uses only its own grapes, not those purchased from others.
- Prestige Cuvée. Each champagne house produces a top-of-the-line "prestige cuvée." For example, Veuve Cliquot produces *La Grande Dame."
- Blanc de Blancs. A Champagne that is made from only white grapes (predominantly Chardonnay.) In contrast, Blanc de Noirs is white champagne made from red grapes, and it tends to be more fruity and powerful.
- Sweetness levels. From least to most sweet, the levels are Brut Nature, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra-Sec, Sec, Demi-Sec and Doux. Most American consumers prefer Brut.
- Other French regions. Other French regions cannot use the terms "Champagne" or "Méthod Champenoise" on their sparkling wines (nor can other countries, although there are still a few American sparklers that have a "grandfathered" right to do so). The terms that you'll see on quality sparkling wines from other French regions are "Crémant" or "Méthod traditionnelle." In other words, these wines are made using the same technique, but on different terroir using different grape types. Some French regions to consider:
- Loire Valley. Look for a Crémant de Loire. These wines are typically made with Chenin blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc and other grapes. They tend to have aromas of white blossoms, toast and orchard fruits. (Sparkling wines labeled "mousseaux" or "petillant" have less carbonation than the crémant.) These are wines for casual drinking.
- Alsace. Look for a Crémant d'Alsace, one of the most popular sparkling wines in France. Most Alsatian crémants are a blend of chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Pinot Noir. They have notes of white fruit, peaches and brioche. These are some of the best value sparkling wines in France.
- Burgundy. Look for a Crémant de Bourgogne, made from a blend of grapes including Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. It typically has notes of white flowers, toast and peach. A Wine Concepts favorite is the Albert Bichot. ($30 retail).
- Italy. There are several types of Italian sparklers, some serious but most mass produced. Italian sparklers are called "spumante."
- Franciacorta. This appellation, located near Milano in the Lombardy region, is probably the most prestigious of the Italian sparkling wines. It's made using Pinot Noir grapes and the traditional method. It has notes of citrus, hazelnuts and bread. These can be good quality wines, but the region also produces its share of simple sparklers.
- Trento DOC. Although these wines are produced in mass quantities in the Trentino Alto-Adige region, they are made using the traditional method. Most are made by large cooperatives, and they tend to be light, low-priced wines mostly suitable for aperitifs. Two producers of more serious Trento wines are Ferrari and Freixenet.
- Veneto. The home of Prosecco, a simple and refreshing sparkling wine best used as an aperitif. Prosecco does not use the traditional method, but instead utilizes a cheaper process in which the second fermentation is done in a large tank (the "Charmat" method).
- Piedmont. There are two sparklers produced here, the Asti Spumante and the frizzante (semi-sparkling and low alcohol level) Moscato d'Asti. These are made using the Glera grape and typically, but not always, the Charmat method. The Asti Spumante make a decent semi-sweet light aperitif, with notes of peach and apricots. These are not the infamous Asti spumantes of past years, but in fact are good quality wines. The Moscato d'Asti is a delicate, fruitier and sweeter wine that is best reserved for desserts.
- Spain. The sparkling wines of Spain are called Cava. Unlike France, Spaniards view sparkling wines as everyday wines, not just reserved for celebrations. An enlightened view! They're made using the traditional method, but mostly from different grapes than champagne (principally Parellada, Xarello, Macabeo and Chardonnay). Although Cava can be made in six regions, almost 95 percent of it is made in Penedès - an appellation in Catalonia, in northeast Spain. The bottom line is that Cava is typically a fairly simple wine, fruitier and less alcoholic than Champagne, with citrus and a earthy notes. Cavas tend to be very good values.
Pairings. Here's where you can get creative, because sparkling wines are very flexible and go with many foods. If you're having an expensive Champagne, of course, you'll want to pair with an equal quality food - caviar comes to mind. Otherwise, some pairings that you may want to try: creamy cheeses (particularly St. Angel); oysters; seafood; poultry; fried chicken; fish tacos.
Wines of the Week. For our "wine of the week" we tried two sparklers at different price points. At the entry level, we tasted the Lucien Albrecht Crémant d’Alsace ($22 retail). This is a great value wine, and it works nicely as an aperitif or with a wide range of foods. It has has floral, citrus and apple notes, and is creamy on the palate. Stepping up a notch, we tasted the Veuve Cliquot Brut NV ($45 retail). There are a number of comparable Champagnes at this price point, but we selected the Veuve Cliquot because of its consistent style and good value for the money. It's a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, and has both a great intensity and a silkiness. Look for notes of citrus, brioche and white fruits. This also works well with a variety of foods - try it with scallops.
Books.
- The Widow Cliquot: The Study of a Champagne Empire and the Woman Who Ruled It, Tilar Mazzeo (2008). The NY Times bestselling story of Barbe-Nicole Cliquot Ponsardin. This is an entertaining and informative story of a woman widowed before 30, with no business or wine training, who built one of the great champagne houses. Barbe-Nicole took control of the family business in 1805 - a time when women simply didn't do that sort of thing. By the age of 40 , she was one of wealthiest entrepreneurs in Europe and one of first women to lead an international company. In Champagne, she was known as "La Grande Dame."
- Champagne Uncorked: The House of Krug and the Timeless Allure of the World’s Most Celebrated Drink, Alan Tardi (2016). The author was granted inside access to the making of the 2013 Krug Grand Cuvée. The book recounts the events of that harvest, interspersed with a history of champagne and and a description of its terroir.