Chablis sometimes gets a bad rap – but don’t fall for that. Chablis makes some stunning, great value wines – if you know what to look for. Unfortunately, Chablis quality can vary considerably, depending in the producer and the area in which its produced. More on that below.
- Chablis is lean and noted for its steeliness, minerality, and acidity. It’s typically not oaked and has a relatively low alcohol level. This is a wine that shouts out its identity on the first sip -- nothing like it is produced anywhere else in the world.
- Chablis is ideal for shellfish. Try it with oysters, shrimp, scallops, lobster, and crab. It also pairs well with sushi and chicken, and it’s one of the few wines that works with asparagus. As for cheeses, Chablis does well with Comté, Swiss, aged Cheddar, and fresh goat cheese.
- Some folks have been turned off after an encounter with “California Chablis” – a cheap jug wine that has more in common with dishwater than wine. You can get a five-liter box of the stuff for $15 (that’s almost seven bottles!) -- it’s rumored to cause Chablis PTSD.
Chablis is produced in the northernmost and coldest portion of Burgundy, exclusively from Chardonnay grapes. The Chablis region is located about 60 miles southeast of Paris and is closer to Champagne than to the rest of Burgundy.
- The key to Chablis is its unique soils and its exceptionally cool climate. In ancient times the sea covered the area, and the best of its soils (called “Kimmeridgean marl”) contain limestone and clay mixed with fossilized shells and marine skeletons. That imparts a distinct chalkiness and minerality to the wine.
The key to getting a good Chablis is to select a good quality level made by a good producer.
- Chablis has four quality levels:
- Grand Cru. This is the highest quality, and you’ll pay $100 or more. The wine may be labeled simply “Grand Cru,” or it may bear the name of one of the seven specific sub-areas (“climats”): Bougros, Les Clos (the most prestigious and age-worthy), Grenouilles, Blanchot, Les Preuses, Valmur and Vaudésir.
- Premier Cru. This is the second highest level, and it typically costs $50 or more. The most highly regarded are Montee de Tonnerre, Fourchaume and Mont de Milieu.
- Chablis. The traditional Chablis area is located on the slopes around the village of Chablis. This is a wine for everyday occasions, and you can find a good bottle in the $20 range.
- Petit Chablis. Don’t waste your money. Typically, these are lower quality wines produced on inferior vineyard sites.
- There are many fine producers, and here are a few that are widely available and dependable:
- Domaine William Fèvre.
- Domaine Joseph Drouhin.
- Maison Jadot.
- Domaine Christian Moreau Père et fils.
- Domaine Raveneau.
- La Chablisienne - a cooperative that produces roughly one-third of Chablis and makes dependably good quality wines.
When to drink your Chablis? Top quality Chablis -- grand cru and the best premier cru -- from a good producer can last a considerable length of time. Here are some general guidelines for how long you can hold a wine after the vintage:
- Chablis Grand Cru: 10 – 15 years.
- Chablis Premier Cru: 5 – 10 years.
- Chablis: 1 - 5 years.
- Petit Chablis: preferably never, but no more than 6 months to two years.
Our wine of the week is a 2017 Joseph Drouhin Chablis ($22 retail). This was a very nice wine and a great value for the price. It's made by a good producer from quality vineyards. The dry wine is pale yellow with green highlights, signalling its cold climate origin, and features aromas of pear, apple, lemon and a hint of white flowers. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, with notes of green apple, pear,minerality, and a hint of vanilla. It has a tingling acidity and a relatively low 12.5 percent alcohol level. The wine is nicely balanced.
- This wine makes a great aperitif, and pairs well with sushi, seafood, and chicken.
Cheers!