Burgundy can be a bit overwhelming . . . and the Burgundians seem to like it that way. It's taken them 2,000 years to make things this complicated, and they're not going to change for something as inconsequential as consumer confusion. Burgundy has numerous appellations (each with its own unique character), its own quality classification system, and significant variations in quality among producers. Consequently, it sometimes can be difficult to tell what's in a given bottle. But, finding a good Burgundy wine is worth the effort.
Rather than tackling Burgundy as a whole, we'll explore its five sub-regions one at a time. Today, we’ll start with the Côte de Nuits, and periodically we'll explore a different sub-region.
Burgundy generally. If you’re not familiar with Burgundy, you might want to check out the Wine Concepts Burgundy primer. Here are a few key points:
· The French call this region "Bourgogne.” You’ll generally see that on the label.
· Bourgogne has five sub-regions. From north to south they are: Chablis, Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune (collectively “Côte d’Or”), Côte Châlonnaise, and the Mâconnais. You might see that on the label.
· Bourgogne red wines are generally made from Pinot Noir, and whites from Chardonnay. You probably won't see the grape type on the label.
· Bourgogne AOC wines are classified into the four-level pyramid shown below. As you move up each level, the production standards tighten, and the quality of the wine, and its cost, increases. That said, there are many fine wines to be found in the lower quality tiers, and some disappointments in the higher tiers. In Bourgogne, the best guarantee of quality is to find a good producer.
The Côte de Nuits begins just south of Dijon, and extends to the south for approximately 17 miles. It is sometimes called the “Champs-Élysées of Burgundy,” and it produces some of the most prestigious -- and expensive -- wines in all of France. Twenty-four of the thirty-three Bourgogne Grand Crus, and many of the top Premier Crus, are found here. But, there are also some good value wines to be found if you know where to look.
Nearly 90 percent of Côte de Nuits wine is red. The wines are intensely flavored, and typically exhibit dark berry fruits, earthy notes and spice. They tend to be more full-bodied and tannic than Bourgogne Pinots from other regions.
For our “wine of the week” we’re going to taste three wines from different appellations and price points. The first is an under $20 “value” wine; the second a "quality" mid-range wine ($75); and the third a "special occasion" wine.
Value. Our value wine is the Louis Latour Marsannay Rouge (about $18 retail). This is a good "everyday" wine - with nice red fruit notes, a touch of earthiness, and gentle tannins. It pairs well with simple chicken, pork, and ham dishes. Marsannay is the northernmost Côte de Nuits appellation. There are no Grand Cru or Premier Cru vineyards here, but it produces good, solid value wines. Two other good producers from this appellation are Bruno Clair and Sylvain Pataille.
Quality. For our "quality" wine, we selected the 2015 Lignier-Michelot “Vielle Vignes” ($75 retail) from Chambolle-Musigny. This village is one of the most prestigious in Burgundy; it contains two Grand Crus (Le Musigny and Bonnes Mares) and numerous Premier Crus, but our wine of the week is a "village" level wine. Our three tasters for this wine unanimously concluded that it is excellent and, even at $75, is a good value - comparing favorably with much more expensive wines. It has very intense flavors of plum, cherry, raspberry and spice, as well as a subtle earthiness. The tannins are mild and silky. This wine will pair well with a wide range of foods, including beef, game, chicken and pork, but is a wonderful wine for simply sipping as it evolves in the glass. One taster observed that it pairs well with dim lights, candles and soft music for a romantic evening. If you can't find this wine, other good Chambolle-Musigny producers include Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, Domaine Georges Roumier and Domain Comte Georges de Vogüe.
Special Occasion. Let's say that you just won the lottery and want a really nice Burgundy. But you haven't lost your mind and don't want to pay hundreds or even thousands of dollars for a bottle. For our special occasion wine, we selected a 2012 Louis Jadot "Les Suchots"Premier Cru ( around $150 retail for more recent vintages). Les Suchots is located in Vosne-Romanee, between two Grand Crus, and is a candidate for "promotion" to Grand Cru. It's well-balanced, with intense dark red fruits, spice, earthy notes and a nice, complex finish. But that description doesn't really do it justice. It pairs well with beef, game, and even grilled tuna - but keep the dish simple so that the wine will shine. You can cellar this wine for up to 20 years.