No, this isn't about a cigarette-smoking cowboy on a horse - it's about New Zealand's Marlborough region and its signature grape, Sauvignon Blanc. Although New Zealand only accounts for about one percent of the world's wine production, it exports 90 percent of its wine and is the third largest exporter to the U.S. market. Sauvignon Blanc accounts for 86 percent of those exports, and most of that is produced in Marlborough.
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc put New Zealand on the international wine map. It's a small, remote country that doesn't really have a strong wine culture - after all, it was founded by a bunch of middle-class, beer-drinking Englishmen. Most people hadn't heard of New Zealand wine until the mid-1980s, when Cloudy Bay released its Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. The world took notice of this crisp, aromatic wine with its citrus, herb and tropical fruit notes. It tasted unlike anything produced elsewhere in the world, and caught on like wildfire.
- This was the first time that an individual wine had created a global market. It not only introduced the world to New Zealand wines, but opened the door for other New Zealand wine varieties. For example, New Zealand makes some excellent Pinot Noirs, a subject for another day.
- The success of Cloudy Bay attracted foreign investors to New Zealand, further stimulating the wine industry's growth.
What's so special about Marlborough? To start with, New Zealand has the southernmost vineyards in the world, and is one of the coolest wine regions. In Marlborough, there are deep deposits of gravel and silt soils and a combination of long days, bright sunshine and cool nights - pretty much perfect conditions to grow Sauvignon Blanc.
- You get a lot of bang for the buck with Marlborough (and New Zealand generally) Sauvignon Blancs. Because it's a prolific grape variety, expensive oak is rarely used, and it can be bottled and sold in the vintage year, these high-quality wines are inexpensive to produce. Most are under $20/bottle.
Our wine of the week is a 2018 Greywacke Marlboro Sauvignon Blanc ($19 retail). First off, it's pronounced "Graywacky," although requesting that in a Texas wine shop often draws a blank look. It's dry and aromatic, with a vibrant acidity. On the nose, there's warm peach, honeysuckle and a hint of spice. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, with citrus, peach and a touch of melon. It's well-balanced, and has a long, smooth finish. The wine is 13 percent alcohol.
- "Greywacke" is named after a dark gray sandstone prevalent in the bedrock and soils of New Zealand vineyards.
- An interesting historical note: Greywacke's winemaker, Kevin Judd, produced the first twenty five vintages of Cloudy Bay before opening his own winery. So, he knows a bit about Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.
- The great thing about Sauvignon Blanc is that it pairs with a wide range of foods. It's great as an aperitif, and pairs well with goat cheese, white fish, shellfish, poultry and pork. It's one of the few wines that pairs with asparagus.
Some other good Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs. There are many to choose from, but here are some of our favorites:
- Cloudy Bay ($23 retail). The wine that started it all is still going strong.
- Greystone ($17 retail).
- Kim Crawford ($18 retail).
Cheers!